I recently acquired a Nikon EM. Small, light, beautifull and contains the only automation I ever use: aperture priority. The problem with these cameras is that the lightmeter is often defective.
The symptoms start with a jumpy needle: the lightmeter needle in the viewfinder jumps up and down whenever the aperture ring is turned. Before taking a shot you need to wiggle the aperture ring a bit to ensure that the exposure will be correct.
The repair for this was very easy: first, you unscrew the 4 screws that hold the lens mount. Next you remove the 3 screws that retain the plastic front plate. Be carefull when you remove the top, since this snaps under the top of the camera. You don't want to break any plastics. Next you remove the lens mount, the metal ring and the plastic ring. At the top part you can see the variable resistor that implements the diaphragm sensor. It is a white plastic plate coated with 2 metal strips. The ring that sits around the lens mount contains a tiny gold plated contact at the back which drags over the 2 metal strips. The problem with the light meter is that the metal coating on the plastic has oxidized. To remedy this, take a cotton bud, dip it in alcohol and clean the metal coating. I did this 3 times until the cotton but stayed more or less white. Don't use too much alcohol. It's a solvent and you don't want to get any of it in the camera or on any contacts.
In reassembling the camera you need to pay attention to 1 thing: the diafragm ring is meant to be spring-loaded. The first time I reassembled this camera the metering ring didn't return to it's starting position when I turned the diaphragm. There is a small white gear (behind the red circle in my image) that is connected to a spring. This gear engages in the diaphragm sensor ring. If the spring is unwound when remounting the camera, it will not be able to do it's job.
To wind the spring before assembly, you insert a small jewelers' screw driver from the top in the screw that sits in the center of the spring (again, indicated by the red circle). You wind the spring all the way and then, whilst holding the screwdriver, replace the ring over the camera in the counterclockwise most position when looking at the front of the camera. Now the diaphragm ring will return to the resting position without trouble.
This lightmeter repair takes about 15 minutes in total and can probably be performed on any Nikon SLR with the needle lightmeter system: Nikom EM, FG, FM,FE and maybe also the Nikon FA (is has an LCD meter instead of a needle, but I think it still retained the same diaphragm sensor).
Awesome, this procedure works perfectly. Thank you writing this up!
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing this well explained information I have just brought back to life an old friend
DeleteBrilliant, just brought back another EM to full working order. Huge thanks for this!
DeleteMy FG-20 meter not working and shutter speed is the same at any setting. Will this procedure help?
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing this great insight...I received a Nikon EM for my 14th birthday back in the 1980. Didn't use it for years because of jumpy needle. Since i recently added a 50mm f1.2 Ais lens to my bag to couple with the Df I thought i'd give a DIY-approach to fix the old cam a try. I could fix the needle issue 100% with your instructions. Looking forward to shoot some upcoming weddings with a Porta NC160 film in the EM for the special look. Thanks again for posting this.
ReplyDeleteHello! The gold/bronze teeths that is a part of that potentiometer where the oxide occurs was actually so worn on my camera so they had been grinded off and didnt have the right length anymore. I bent them outwards extensively but It doesent seem to have been enough so unfortunately mine is still malfunctioning. Interesting to know this repair anyway. Tank you!
ReplyDeleteThank you! This fixed the jump needle on my Nikon EM perfectly.
ReplyDeleteExcelente, afortunadamente pude ver tu información. Se arreglo el problema de la aguja así como el ajuste del resorte del engrane. Quedo como nueva la EM, 20 años guardada con ese problema.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip. This fixed my EM perfectly.
ReplyDeleteJust received a pristine EM and late 28mm f/3.5 Nikkor also in excellent condition. Oh no! Meter didn't work! Followed your instructions and now meter works perfectly. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteVery easy to follow instructions would of helped with some pics though. It took me longer than 15min. I bought the EM at a church rummage sale and put in new batteries no meter or auto only M90 so I took it apart and cleaned the copper strip and the other contact, reassembled and still no meter, but the auto worked. So, hopefully, I can still get to take some shots with this 1980's camera.
ReplyDeleteI tried this with a Nikon FE but I can't reach the white plastic plate. Did someone succeded whith this body?
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Hello! I have one issue with fe2 - the black needle of the meter doesn't travel uper than 1/250, I've tried different batteries, different iso but the needle still doesn't travel uper 1/250. Interestingly, it seems to be accurate, as I've shot two test rolls and exposure was okay. What it can be?
ReplyDeleteHello. I have been tinkering with my ME. I got the meter to work with one catch. It dies as soon as you advance the film! I cleaned ask the contacts I could reach by removing the top and bottom caps. I haven't touched the diaphragm though. Any thoughts?
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Thanks for the great description. Saved my EM.
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