Servicing a Varadero 125

The "European Motor show Brussels" just started. Reason enough to switch the topic to motorcycles. The Honda Varadero 125 is a great little bike that can be cheap to own if you like to do some maintenance work yourself.

This year I got myself a light motorcycle as an alternative means of transportation to get me to work. Since I don't have a motorcycle drivers license yet, I'm limited to 125cc bikes. When checking out this category, it soon became apparent that the only serious looks-and-feels-like-a-real-bike machine in this class is the Honda Varadero.

The bike

Since it's rather expensive for a light bike I decided to buy second hand in Grmany, where prices for used bikes are much lower then in Belgium. My wife proposed to start cheap and upgrade to a bigger bike once I hit 10.000 km. Sounded like a plan!
After a search on mobile.de and a daunting ride back with the machine on a dodgy trailer in stormy weather, this is what I ended up with in my garage:

Now that I have put 3.000 kms on it in a few months (hey, it's a start), it's time for some winter maintenance. The following is already done:
- change brake pads front & rear (easy)
- clean brake callipers and pistons (easy)
- replace/refill all brake fluid (not so easy to get all of the air out of the system)
- change engine oil and filter (very easy)
- clean airbox and airfilter (easy but a PITA to degrease and dry properly)
- clean carbs (rather difficult to do the disassembly/reassembly without experience)

Fixing the suspension

Today's job will consist of replacing the sealing rings on the front suspension.

When I got the bike, the left leg of the fork was leaking a bit of oil. I managed to 'cure' the problem by lifting the dust cap and inserting a small bent paperclip between the fork seal and the stanchion. Once the clip is inserted you can wiggle it around to bring out any dirt that is caught underneath the seal. with the dirt removed, the seal can do its job again.

Although the fix really worked, it is better to replace the seals. The bike is now 4 years old, so it's also time to replace the fork oil. Since this means stripping the whole front end, I'll also replace the seals whilst we're at it.

The procedure
My procedure is as follows:

• partially unscrew the front axle and brake caliper bolts
• partially unscrew the fork cap
• put the motorcycle on a stand so the front end is airborn
• remove front wheel, brake caliper and fender
• loosen the pinch bolts in the top and bottom clamp so you can slide out the fork legs
• unscrew the damping rod by removing the bolt in the bottom of the fork (let oil run out)
• unscrew the fork caps (make sure you hold the cap tightly, there still is some spring pressure)
• remove the spacers and spring
• remove the dust cap and the spring that is retaining the fork seal in the leg

I read a lot about how difficult is was to separate the stanchion from the outer leg. I tried an alternative procedure that involved filling up the leg completly with oil and then compressing out the seal with the aid of a car jack.
That procedure turned out to be both unsuccessful and unnecessary. The following steps are the normal procedure and are very easy:

• remove the damper from the leg (remember you had to unscrew it before letting out the oil? The reason is that if you first let out the oil, the damper will turn by itself and you will not be able to remove the retaining bolt at the bottom without a special tool)
• Hyperextend the fork by pulling the two halves away with your hands. You only need moderate force and a few pulls.

The rest of the procedure goes as follows:

• Remove the sealing ring from the stanchion and replace with a new one (insert it in the correct direction). You can remove and clean the other parts as well if you like.
• Cut away the outer rubber of the old ring and put in on top of the new one.
• Now turn the assembly upside down and hammer in the new ring by smashing the fork onto a bench that has an opening for the slider to go through (see picture)
• by lifting the leg up and dropping it (carfully)through the gap in the bench, you will hammer in the fork seal inch by inch. Make sure to keep the fork vertical and don't jam it down too hard.
• When the new fork seal is seated in the leg, remove the old seal from the stanchion
• Replace the retainer spring and the dust cap
• Fill with oil: 346ml should get you an oil level 117mm below the top of the fork with the stanchion full compressed without the spring inserted. (if not: add or remove some oil)
• Replace the fork cap and reassemble your bike

I have to say it was easier than I tought it would be. Doing this yourself costs about 20€ (2 bottles of fork oil and 2 fork seals), having it done at a workshop will cost anywhere from 200-500 €.