Saturday, August 31, 2013

Creating negatives from Fuji FP-100c polaroid peel apart film

Yesterday I took my first Polaroid picture ever. I used my Polaroid 320 land camera and a pack of Fuji FP-100c. It was pure magic to see the image appear in front of my eyes.

What disappointed me was how soft the image was. So I decided to see if I could salvage the negative, which is rumored to be much sharper. It turned out to be very easy to do.
Step 1: tape the negative (emulsion side down) to a piece of glass

Step 2: drip some household bleach on the black backside

Step 3: wiggle the glass to distribute the bleach on the negative

Step 4: due to surface tension, the bleach will not distribute evenly. Give it a hand by moving the bleach around with the edge of a paper towel

Step 5: wait 2 minutes (I used a bit too much bleach here)

Step 6: rinse under the faucet

Step 7: dry the back and remove the tape, hang to dry

As an alternative to step 7 you can also wash the emulsion side with cold water. This will remove the developer (goop) wich is still on the negative. I learned that this step is unnecessary and dangerous. If you make sure the emulsion side doesn't get well at all, the goop layer will have no impact on sharpness and only a minor reduction of contrast, which can be remedied in Photoshop afterwards.
The danger of trying to wash the goop of is that you can damage the emulsion.In any case, I would never touch the emulsion side with anything (Remember that paper towels are very abrasive. You will cause scratches).

Below is a comparison between a scan of the negative and a scan of the positive Polaroid picture itself. You can clearly see that the negative is much sharper then the positive. In this case, a bit of bleach got under the corner of the negative. Some people do this deliberately to create an artistic effect.

(full res pictures available on Flickr)

Negative:

Positive:

Here is a detail of the negative (left) compared with the positive (right).


The negative below had the goop washed off it's emulsion side. You can see that there is no difference in sharpness with the negative above.

Negative:

Positive:

If you want to create negatives like this, it is important to shield your negative from light just after development. Whilst the negative is still wet, the developer stays active and the negative will get darker and fogged when exposed to strong light. I still need to experiment a bit to learn how big this effect is, but I already experienced that the dashboard of a car in full sun is not a good place to let the negatives dry.

6 comments:

  1. Very Interesting, thanks a lot !

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  2. Will this not work with the Fuji 3000 black and white film?

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  3. No, you can't wash and bleach Fuji 3000 B&W http://delvauxkoen.blogspot.be/2013/09/i-tried-out-fuji-fb-3000b-instant-peel.html

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  4. hi. i really like this article. I noticed that, as with your scans, the image from the negative has a lot of grain whereas the positive image is practically grain free. Is this an in inherent quality of the negative or due to chemical reticulation?

    thanks, bruce

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  5. I think not, Bruce, the positive stems from diffused color from the negative, hence its a bit unsharp, and looses the grainyness in the process.

    Erik

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  6. Also rewashing the negative: just stuffing the negative into a shallow box or something, maybe a plastic container with 2% acetic acid, will stop the development immediately and wash away the goop in a safe manner.

    I think. It needs to be verified, but a stop bath is recommended withnormal film development.

    Lifting it carefully and then a quick rinse in clean water does the trick, not handling the surface in any way.

    Erik

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